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Sick of clone High Streets? Don’t worry, Wales’s market towns are refreshingly “real”. Discover how one historic market town is managing to reinvent itself while keeping faith with its heritage.
There are a few things that are likely to happen while you are in Ruthin. You’ll meet helpful, friendly people. You’ll relax into the peaceful pace and, let’s be honest, you might get rained on. But you’re unlikely to get lost.
It’s not a large town. Most roads lead to St Peter’s Square, at the top of the hill and flanked by handsome timber-framed buildings. So, it’s slightly embarrassing that we did, in fact, get lost. Blame it on all those pretty shops and long views down sloping roads over striking roof lines and beyond to the Clwydian Range. Very distracting.
I’m here with my friend Charlotte. I’m from Brighton, she’s from Manchester. Having dropped our bags at our hotel, the beautiful Manorhaus, we head out and quickly discover that Ruthin boasts a surprising number of shops – and Boots is the only chain store. “This is a real treat,” says Charlotte. “Time to shop and lots of independent stores, too.” “And no kids to interrupt us, either,” I add. On that cheery note, we march off.
Ruthin has the brass tacks outlets – butcher, ironmonger and bakery – alongside a handful of upmarket boutiques and jewellery shops, including Mococo and Twenty3. We’re more interested in the stores that sit somewhere in between the practical and the indulgent.
Like Leonardo’s, our first stop. A thriving deli, it is packed with shoppers, picking up a Snowdonia Whisky Cheese sandwich or some fresh-baked brownies. Charlotte picks some apricot and ginger chutney and we both take some of Leornardo’s awardwinning chicken, leek and laverbread pies.
Honey buns, a Ruthin speciality, make an irresistible snack. We tuck into one each, a sweet, bready treat that’s incredibly filling.
Leonardo’s has been in business for 10 years, while the Ruthin Book Shop, just down the hill, has been run by Janet Kenyon-Thompson for 25. Janet says her customers come from far and wide, with locals mainly coming in for maps.
Down the hill, Tilly Mint opened in 2008 in a cosy basement with a timbered ceiling. It’s just the kind of shop I love, packed with vintage collectables, from sparkly Sixties handbags to 1930s postcards and Victorian ceramics. I’m drawn to the boxes full of old advertising cards, but eventually fall for a framed Victorian seascape and bag it for my living room wall.
It sounds like elephants are doing aerobics upstairs, but it’s just Spavens the sweet shop above. It’s a mecca for heavy-footed kids. Charlotte has a notoriously sweet tooth so dives in for a bag of strawberry bonbons and some blackcurrant liquorice “the traditonal sort – my favourite”.
Nearby on the square, we find Cerrig & The Green Lady, a sweet-scented emporium of toiletries and cosmetics made with natural ingredients, many from small producers in Wales and the UK. Charlotte treats herself to some Neal’s Yard Toning Eye Gel, an indulgence at £19.55, but there are plenty of goodies for just a few pounds too, from handmade soap to beeswax candles.
Ruthin is clearly working hard at attracting visitors with unique, independent shops, while also remaining a down-to-earth market town. Of course, it would be wrong to judge Ruthin solely on its shops. It has plenty of history; a medieval settlement with a castle built by Edward I (now the Ruthin Castle Hotel), the town was burnt to the ground by Welsh hero Owain Glyndwˆ r in 1400.
Consequently, many of Ruthin’s buildings have medieval cellars (the only part to survive the fire) topped with timber-framed constructions from later in the 15th century, like Nantclwyd y Dre, Wales’ oldest timber-framed building. I loved all the old, handsome buildings.
A contrast to all this history is new kid on the block, Ruthin Craft Centre, opened in 2008. It’s an exquisitely-designed space with three galleries hosting the best in international contemporary applied art.
The centre is lovely to stroll around, with a cafe and gift shop, sorry, “retail gallery”, too, selling high-quality glassware, ceramics and jewellery, a gorgeous Welsh blanket catches my eye, but at over £200 it’s a purchase that will have to wait until the next time.
Having pottered, shopped and lingered in the Craft Centre, we lunched on our Leonardo’s pies. We’d planned a walk in the Clwydian Range to round off our day, but the hills are obscured by drizzle, so we retreat to the comfort of Manorhaus, where owner Gavin Harris serves tea in the rich red lounge.
Refurbished in 2007, each of its eight rooms has a king-size bed, goose-down duvet and deliciously crisp Egyptian cotton bedlinen. They have been designed in collaboration with local artists.
I’m in Oriel 5, decorated with paintings by Ian Williams. There’s an impressive roll top bath by the sash window (I did pull down the blind before using it, to spare Ruthin’s blushes), a wet room and a lounge area with its own fireplace. I could have happily moved in for the week.
It’s very easy to relax at Manorhaus, with help from the steam room, cinema and restaurant where, in the evening, Charlotte and I devour three fantastic courses, including heavenly poached haddock and a rich rabbit stew.
My only regret is that Gavin baulked at showing us his robes. He’s mayor until May this year, and eager to see the town prosper. “The chain is great,” he confides, “but the robes are a bit musty.”
Ruthin is anything but. Useful links www.visitruthin.com www.manorhaus.com www.northwalesborderlands.co.uk
Duncan writes about all things Welsh, and specialises in UK Breaks, activity holidays and UK family holidays.
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