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I was in Florida fishing a silver spoon between sand bars; oyster shells from long ago harvestings strewn all around. The more of the scattered shells I saw, made me hungrier for oyster stew, seafood gumbo and oysters on the half shell.
If ever there was an ideal place made for oysters, scallops and other forms of aquatic life, it is here in Apalachicola Bay. The visits I have had there were all enjoyable because the fishing is great and the oysters delicious beyond description.
Oystering is a way of life for a few hundred men and women on this bay in northwest Florida. They are known as Tongers, a name given them because they use scissor like poles with a rake like attachment on the bottom of each pole. These poles are connected to each other by a pin in the middle and can be very heavy. The oysters are trapped between the baskets, making them heavier still.
At one time during the 60’s and 70’s, there were as many as 1,500 of these hardy men and women. These oystermen braved the heat and storms during the summer and the cold and rain during the winter, to produce as much as 10% of the nation’s oysters. Almost any time during the day, if one is driving on the causeway from St. George Island to Apalachicola, you can see clusters of 22′ to 26′ wooden fishing boats dotting the water.
Getting the oysters out of the water is one thing. Getting them to market is another. The oysterman hauls the tongs out of the water and dumps the contents on a culling board that stretches from one side of the boat to the other. He, or she, plunges the tongs into the water and pull it out with oysters and dumps them on the culling board.
On the culling board the oysters will be in clumps, which the culler will separate. The clumps are broken loose with a culling hammer; much like brick hammer or a climbing tool. Any dead shells will be sent overboard as will as any oyster less than three inches long. Miscellaneous debris is also dumped over the side.
After the oysters have been culled, they into a sack or bucket to take to their customers. Oystermen can catch as many as 20 sacks or 20 bushels. I haven’t checked in a few years to see if that limit is still in effect.
One of my all-time oyster dishes is an excellent stew. Here is how I make mine:
Ingredients:
1 cup of butter, 1 medium onion, diced, 3 stalks of celery, diced,1 large garlic clove, diced, 1 ½ cups of heavy cream, 1 can of evaporated milk, 24 oysters, cleaned and shucked, 1 teaspoon of salt, one dash of cayenne, 3 dashes of Worchester sauce, ½ teaspoon of soy sauce and one cup of scallions.
Directions:
Melt the butter then add scallions, celery and garlic. Cook over low heat until translucent. Do not burn!
Add salt and pepper. Add cayenne and flour, whisking to make a base for the soup. Increase the heat to medium high and add the milk and cream and the rest of the ingredients. Cook for about 4 minutes.
I have been out on Apalachicola searching for oysters only once. It was with an oysterman whose name I can’t remember; I do remember the heat from the summer sun. I had been using the tongs for an hour when I could’t bring oyster into the boat any longer. My shoulders and back hurt too much.
Whatever the market charges for oysters, they are well worth the price!
Bob Alexander is well experienced in outdoor cooking, fishing and leisure living. Bob is also the author and owner of this article. Visit his sites at: http://www.redfishbob.com http://www.bluemarlinbob.com
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